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wave steepness (ratio)

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  • Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small …   Wikipedia

  • Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 …   Wikipedia

  • Dispersion (water waves) — This article is about dispersion of waves on a water surface. For other forms of dispersion, see Dispersion (disambiguation). In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of… …   Wikipedia

  • analysis — /euh nal euh sis/, n., pl. analyses / seez /. 1. the separating of any material or abstract entity into its constituent elements (opposed to synthesis). 2. this process as a method of studying the nature of something or of determining its… …   Universalium

  • river — river1 riverless, adj. riverlike, adj. /riv euhr/, n. 1. a natural stream of water of fairly large size flowing in a definite course or channel or series of diverging and converging channels. 2. a similar stream of something other than water: a… …   Universalium

  • Earth Sciences — ▪ 2009 Introduction Geology and Geochemistry       The theme of the 33rd International Geological Congress, which was held in Norway in August 2008, was “Earth System Science: Foundation for Sustainable Development.” It was attended by nearly… …   Universalium

  • Swell (ocean) — Ocean swell redirects here. For the thoroughbred racehorse, see Ocean Swell. Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California …   Wikipedia

  • coal mining — Coal was very important in the economic development of Britain. It was used as fuel in the factories built during the Industrial Revolution and continued to be important until the 1980s. The main coalfields are in north east England, the north… …   Universalium

  • Marine terrace — A marine terrace, coastal terrace[1], raised beach or perched coastline is a relatively flat, horizontal or gently inclined surface of marine origin[2], mostly an old abrasion platform which has been lifted out of the sphere of wave activity… …   Wikipedia

  • El Salvador — /el sal veuh dawr /; Sp. /el sahl vah dhawrdd / a republic in NW Central America. 5,661,827; 13,176 sq. mi. (34,125 sq. km). Cap.: San Salvador. Also called Salvador. * * * El Salvador Introduction El Salvador Background: El Salvador achieved… …   Universalium

  • Hybrid zone — A hybrid zone exists where the ranges of two interbreeding species meet. For a hybrid zone to be stable, the offspring produced by the cross (the hybrids) have to be less fit than members of the parent species, although this condition does not… …   Wikipedia

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